By: Kamal Baruah
I had used up most of my younger days in travel when I nostalgically recall those memorable moments of the snows of yesteryears. My first trip to peninsular India was one of them where I was to attend a seminar at Madurai Kamaraj University. It was typically Tamil all the way. The Dravidian dialectal is predominantly spoken by the entire Tamilakam.
Indian Railway has a distinctive adventure. As soon as I stepped into a compartment of Tamil Nadu Express in New Delhi, I was assailed by nostalgia. The Idli-Vada journey had begun. My berth was surrounded by deep-rooted skin-colour co-passengers. Even before the train set in motion, a family around me sighed with happy anticipation for a feast. Little I express to share; it seemed to arrive into hostile forces. I was shockingly horrified to choose iravu (dinner) from the Pantry. The tayir ariici (curd rice) forced me signs of intoxication and I felt flat.
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I realized in the morning that the train was catching a very good speed. My fellow passengers chatted about the relative merits of stations. It was kalai (breakfast) at Bhopal. I hopped off at a 30-second-halt in search of a perfect breakfast. Hot idlis with large chutney-sambar were impressed but not entirely surprised as food is an important part of the train journey. The train moved Itarsi, and Nagpur through the irregular chain of mountain ridges, highlands, and plateau of Vindhya Range. Four parallel bridges over the Krishna River at Vijaywada pleased my mind aesthetically. The train moved intermittently to the Coromandel Coast. It was curiya utayam (sunrise) at Chennai Central.
Being common genetic variants for skin in the southern city, I was easily identified as an outsider. With a crinkled blood-red shirt and a towel around his neck, a porter started pouring English in Tamil. South India differs quite radically from I experienced the joys of clambering and pretending to be a chimpanzee in that crowded coach of Vaigai Express. I was no Tarzan but I stayed afloat. The enchanting fragrance of flowers filled the coach. It was jam-packed by am’mas (mother/lady) transporting flowers in bulk. I crawled a bit further and encountered a dazzling array of flowers – jasmine, firecrackers flower (kanagambaram), marigold (samandi), and country roses. Women are very picky choosing only the freshest of flowers for ornamental needs.
Soon after settling down, the hawkers arrived. I was chuckling as the varieties of snacks from chakli to vada, nipattu, kodubale, banana chips, mirchi bajji, malpuri, etc made it a great railway bazaar. After a heroic act, I was feeling ravenously hungry and looking for a choice. I got bewildered, stared at my effort, and had to taste some.
After five hours of seamless travel, the train finally ran over the Vaigai River and I got off at the last sleepy stoppage at Madurai. I noticed two boys on the platform with one PP-sized photograph welcoming me ‘Vanakkam, ni ciruvan’ (namaskar, you boy). By the end, I realized Tamil words are similar to Sanskrit. I responded to their grins with a smile ‘nan tiru Kamal’ (I’m Kamal). Our auto passed through the ancient Meenakshi Temple, towards the house of my friend Rangaraj’s sister.
My host was hospitable and the only difficulty was the language since they communicate only Tamil. With my small vocabulary, I felt like entering a hostile island. I did recollect Lamuel Gulliver’s “A voyage to Lilliput” that washed ashore after a shipwreck and finds himself a prisoner of a race of tiny people. The social influences of south Indian superstars mean a lot. While the entire family members were watching a Rajnikant movie, the little boy desperately wanted to talk with me. I could reply with just ‘am’ (yes) and ‘illai’ (no). He was frustrated and did frantic attempt “Koncam Tamilam illai (can’t even speak a little Tamil)”.
Serving a usual dinner from dosa to idli, vada and sambar-chutney relished the authentic Tamil thali, a magical confluence of flavours. The heat didn’t subside at even night after the unbearable blazing sun. There’re noble ways to stay cool. However, bed-on-terrace was effective indeed. The night was cool under the blue sky with millions of stars that twinkly reminded. It’s the land of Tamilam. I discovered that understanding Tamil was not so easy. All I need to learn is a little bit of Tamil when I head on next time. I took rest blissfully that night.
