By: Dipak Kurmi
The historical tapestry of Western Tibet, especially around Mount Kailash in the vicinity of the India-Nepal-Tibet trijunction, is intriguing. Notably, Purang/Taklakot and the nearby Toyo have etched their names in history through the epic confrontation between General Zorawar Singh’s Dogras and the Tibetan forces.
In the chilling December of 1841, the victorious Dogra forces, having recently subdued Western Tibet, faced a formidable adversary—the Tibetans, and an even harsher opponent—winter itself. Tsepon Shakabpa, the eminent Tibetan historian, vividly recounts the Battle of Taklakot/Toyo. Responding swiftly, the Tibetan government dispatched General Shedra Wangchuk Gyelpo and the Ü Tsang militia, led by Cabinet minister Pellhün, to Ngari. The strategic positioning of the Dogra regiments in Rutok, Trashigang, and Rupshö prompted covert preparations for the Tibetan troops to engage each unit separately. The seasoned Dogra troops, under the command of Zorawar Singh, found themselves confronted in the frigid eleventh month, as the Tibetan forces orchestrated a synchronized assault from all directions amid the coldest weather of the year.
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The decisive moment for Zorawar Singh and his troops unfolded, as described by Shakabpa: “Three days into the conflict, a relentless snowfall sealed the fate of the Sikh forces stationed at Taklakot. Battling not only the harsh weather but also the ferocious Tibetan assault, the Sikhs found themselves frozen in the icy grip of winter. Amidst the desperate struggle, Zorawar Singh, galloping on his horse, became a recognizable target for a Yasor named Mikmar. In a chilling encounter, Mikmar hurled a spear, causing Singh to tumble from his horse. Swiftly dismounting, Mikmar severed Singh’s head and proudly carried it into the heart of the Tibetan camp. The gruesome sight shattered the morale of the Sikh (Dogra) soldiers, prompting them to flee in disarray, seeking escape in any possible way.”
Several months after the harrowing events, Maharaja Gulab Singh decisively thwarted the Tibetan forces attempting to invade Ladakh. The capture of Dapön Zurkhang and Dapön Pelzhi marked a turning point, leading to their transport to Leh. It was in Leh that a peace treaty between the Dogras and Tibetans was solemnized, reaffirming the age-old boundary between Ladakh and Tibet. Notably, Toyo, now making headlines for unrelated reasons, is home to the enduring tomb of Zorawar Singh, a silent testament to the region’s historical significance.
A recent report in Chinese media highlights the establishment of a newly constructed village in Toyo. Emphasizing China’s ongoing commitment to enhance rural living conditions, the focus lies on initiatives such as environmental landscaping, aesthetic enhancements, and water purification. The transformations observed in Toyo serve as a tangible representation of the Ngari region’s dedicated endeavors to create a picturesque and comfortable rural environment.
Over the last three years, Western Tibet has seen the execution of 31 projects solely aimed at constructing livable, industrially equipped, and aesthetically pleasing villages. A local Communist Party official articulates in his terms that this initiative aligns with the principles of creating villages characterized by beauty, leisure, happiness, livability, cleanliness, and orderliness. The question arises: What prompts the establishment of a new village in Toyo?
According to Newsweek, China seems to have finalized the construction of a new dam in its southwestern border regions, a venture with potentially significant strategic consequences for its southern neighbors, India and Nepal. Situated on the Mapcha Tsangpo (also recognized as the Peacock River, Ghaghara or Saryu in India, and Karnali in Nepal), the dam serves as a continuous source of freshwater supply for the populations downstream.
It is noteworthy that the presence of this hydropower plant, situated near the Indian border, was conspicuously absent from any previously published Chinese plans. Despite satellite imagery indicating a medium-sized river-of-the-river dam without a substantial reservoir, there arises a legitimate cause for concern downstream in India. However, the situation unveils additional layers of complexity.
A forthcoming airport is under development a few kilometers north of both the hydropower plant and the designated “model” village. In June 2018, the Civil Aviation Administration of China disclosed plans for three new airports in Tibet. Chinese-language press provided details about their locations: one near Lhuntse, situated to the north of Arunachal Pradesh, the second north of a border post with Nepal, and the last in Purang.
As outlined by the Chinese website seetao.com, the purpose of these three airports is dual-fold. In times of peace, they serve for civilian aviation and military aircraft training on the plateau. However, in times of war, these airports are designed for direct military utilization, facilitating military operations and playing a pivotal role in strategic defense.
While the announcement might have faded from memory for many in India, the airport is now operational. Videos showcasing the newly constructed airfield surfaced on Chinese social media on November 10, 2023. It is essential to perceive these three advancements—the model village, hydropower station, and airport—as interconnected. Undoubtedly, all three are designed for dual purposes, serving both civilian and military functions.
A noteworthy development demands attention: the suspension of the Kailash Yatra for Indian pilgrims. The majestic 6,638-meter-tall diamond-shaped mountain is revered as the dwelling place of Lord Shiva and holds profound significance in Jain, Buddhist, and Bon religions. For centuries, pilgrims from India have embarked on spiritual journeys to this sacred site. Since the 1990s, they accessed Tibet through the Lipulekh Pass in Pittoragarh district and later via Nathu-la in Sikkim. However, following the Doklam incident in 2017, Indian yatris were barred from using these routes.
Despite Kathmandu’s request being overlooked by Beijing for the aerial sightseeing of Mount Kailash, Nepali tour operators took the initiative to provide an alternative. A significant number of devotees then opted for the Nepal route, utilizing chartered helicopters from Simikot to Purang. Regrettably, the program had to be halted later due to the impact of the Covid-19 pandemic.
Upon its reopening for Nepali participants in 2022, the Chinese authorities disallowed Indian visitors from flying to Purang. This decision came despite the fact that in the previous year alone, Nepali tour operators had received an overwhelming 50,000 bookings from Indian pilgrims eager to embark on the sacred pilgrimage.
As reported by the Kathmandu Post, a novel solution has emerged: a flight that remains within Nepalese territory, allowing for a “remote” darshan of the sacred mountain. A recent announcement stated, “Shree Airlines operated a first-of-its-kind aerial pilgrimage tour of the holy places, making the pilgrims’ dream come true without a Chinese visa.” It is evident that China aims to restrict Indians from experiencing a genuine darshan of the holy mountain or approaching the burial site of Zorawar Singh. These recent developments in the region shed light on the motivations behind these measures. (The writer can be reached at dipaknewslive@gmail.com)
